MERA PEAK CLIMBING
Trip
Overview
Mera Peak is
located at the head of the quiet and remote Hinku valley, an area of
the Mount Everest region rarely frequented by trekkers or visitors.
There are many approaches to Mera; some are easy and some require
the crossing of high and difficult passes.
South ridge is
considered un-climbable, East and north faces almost so. Northeast
ridge is a difficult mixed 1600 meters climb. West face is possible,
so is north-west ridge, but access to Mera West glacier (Khare
glacier) is difficult; either a 500 climb up an icefall or a 1,000
meter climb over west side ramparts to the glacial basin at 5,600
meters.
|Picture Gallery| |

Location : |
Khumbu Region, Nepal |
Longitude : sp; |
27� 46' 27" North |
Longitude : |
86� 54' 40" East |
Major Proximity : |
Namche / Lukla |
Rescue Operations : sp; sp; |
From Kathmandu (1 � hrs) |
Best Seasons : |
Mar-Apr-May / Sep-Oct |
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This extended and strenuous trek, circumnavigating the Manaslu range, is one
that avid trekkers could only dream about till a few Years back. Officially
opened to trekking in 1990 and just as suddenly forbidden again, it was
finally "reopened" in 1992 along with Mustang. A Government quota, however,
limits the number of visitors to the area.
Strenuous trekking is constantly rewarded with brilliant mountain vistas of
the Ganesh and Manaslu Himal ranges and insights into the cultures of a
cross-section of ethnic Nepalese tribes and peoples, perhaps not available
on any other trek.
Starting, in the lush green lower hills inhabited by Indo-Aryan Hindus, you
will pass through middle hills which is inhabited by the Tibetan-Burmese,
Magar, Rai,Limbu and Tamang peoples who follow both Hinduism and Buddhism
and sometimes Shamanism, to emerge into the high, arid desert region that is
actually a part of the Tibetan Plateau where people of Tibetan Stock dwell
and where the predominant religion is Tibetan Buddhism.
This trip is long and strenuous and the crossing of the Larkya La requires
excellent physical conditioning, acclimatization to the high altitude and of
course good weather.
ITINERARY
Day 01: Arrive at Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Full day guided sightseeing around of the Kathmandu valley.
Preparation for the trip (B / D)
Join us on the welcome dinner at evening. Hotel Overnight
Day 03: Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m) (B / L / D)
Start the trek. Camp at Puyan (2,800m)
We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the
Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views
of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter
aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start
of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set
off straight away for our first camp at Puyan (2,800m).
Day 04: Pangkongma (2,846m) (B / L / D)
After crossing the Poyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up
from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the
ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the
ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the
attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma (2,846m). Many
expedition members have been made welcome by the villagers here, spending
several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the
enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local's traditional Sherpa homes.
Day 05: Nashing Dingma (2,600m) (B / L / D)
With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastery and Lamjura, we climb
through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La.
From here, we have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks
and of its neighbour Naulekh. We then make a scenic descent with beautiful
views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the
Hinku valley. This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that
spans the Hinku Khola. A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side leads
to Nashing Dingma (2,600m). We stay here for the night at the excellent
campsite established by the Makalu National Park.
Day 06: Chalem Kharka (3,600m) (B / L / D)
Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail
steepens as we climb up to the Surke La. It is possible to take a nice,
welcome cup of tea in a lodge just over the pass. Walking on, eventually, we
reach an attractive campsite at a col 1km beyond Chalem Kharka (3,600m), set
among fir trees and rhododendron bushes.
Day 07: Chunbu Kharka (4,200m) (B / L / D)
Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron
and the terrain becomes more rugged. Passing through high grazing country
and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of
Kangchenjunga and Jannu to the east. We continue climbing to Panch Pokari
and then on to camp at Chunbu Kharka (4,200m).
Day 08: Rest day at Chunbu Kharka (B / L / D)
Today, we have a well-earned rest day. Whether you take it easy and relax,
or scramble some of the nearby rocky outcrops, this is a rewarding day and a
useful aid to acclimatisation.
Day 09: Trek to Hinku Valley. Continue to Thaksingdingma (3600m) (B / L /
D)
We ascend slowly passing through the jungle. We find virtually no human
settlement on the trail. This will be one of our longest walking days,
mostly downhill. We will traverse several flats and spurs until we gain our
first view of Mera Peak. From here we will drop down into the isolated Hinku
Valley. Aside from mountaineers, the Hinku Valley is sparsely populated and
very pristine. We will ascend a steep section of trail until we enter the
forest, where we will stop for lunch. Eventually we will drop down into the
humid, bamboo forests, before turning north up along the west side of the
Hinku River towards Mera Peak. We will slowly ascend to Thaksingdingma and
reach for camping.
Day 10: Trek to Thangnak (4350m) (B / L / D)
Today we will have amazing mountain views as we continue north up the Hinku
Valley. The trail gently climbs along the west bank of the Hinku River.
Spectacular mountains, such as Kusum Kangari to the west and Mera Peak to
the east, will be in view throughout the morning. We will make our way up
onto the meadows on the western side of the Hinku Valley as we climb above
the tree line. Here we will stop for lunch. Throughout the afternoon, we
will traverse meadows and hill slopes, dotted with grazing yaks, until we
reach the settlement of Tangnak (4,350m, 14,268ft). If it�s been a snowy
season, the sound of avalanches will soon be familiar. We are approaching
the heart of the high Himalaya.
Day 11: Trek to Khare (5100m) (B / L / D)
Today we will climb above 5,000 m (16,400ft) for the first time. Our hike up
to Khare (5,100m, 16,728ft) is short, but we will take it slowly, with
frequent stops to soak up the incredible surroundings. The trail heads
eastward out of Tangnag, along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier. We
will pause to climb up the moraine for a view of the pristine Sabai Tso
glacial lake. A drop in lake level, caused by a recent rupture of the
natural dam the held the lake, is clearly visible. We will arrive at Khare
in the early afternoon and have lunch. From Khare, the beautiful north face
of Mera Peak is in plain view and Mera glacier spills steeply down into the
valley.
Day 12: Trek to Mera La (5400m) (B / L / D)
Today we will travel a short distance, slowly ascending up onto Mera
glacier. The climb is initially steep, but flattens out as we reach the
crest of the glacier. We will traverse a long flat on top of the glacier as
we make our way to the pass, called Mera La (5,400m, 17,710ft). From here,
the views are stunning. Crevasse fields gently stretch out in front of the
pass and we are literally enclosed by a ring of jagged peaks and blue-green
glaciers. The remaining route up to the summit of Mera Peak is clearly
visible. We will have lunch at Mera La and spend the afternoon relaxing and
staying warm.
Day 13: Rest / Exploration Day for Acclimatization (B / L / D)
Rest day for acclimatization. You can explore around or climb up for a few
hours and come back to the Base Camp for the night
Day 14: Continue to High Camp (5800m) (B / L / D)
We have a short, steep climb up to High camp, but we will take it very
slowly so that we allow for the altitude gain. At 5,800 m (19,025ft), high
camp is nestled behind a large rock outcrop. We will arrive here by lunch
and spend the afternoon relaxing and further acclimatizing. Bill O�Conner in
the book �Trekking Peaks of Nepal� describes high camp as �one of the most
glorious viewpoints in Nepal, with a panarama that takes in Kanchenjunga,
Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping round from the east, whilst due north
Everest peers over�the massive unclimbed South Face of Lhotse and Nuptse.
Sitting on that rock outcrop, listnening to the wind and looking out across
untracked glaciers remains a highlight of my Mera expedition.We make
preparation for the next day to get to the summit.
Day 15: Summit the Mera Peak (6,654 m / 21,830 ft) (B / L / D)
Today we go to the summit at 21,830 ft from where the views of Pumori (7,161
m) Lhotse (8,516 m), Makalu (8,463 m), Lobuche (6,145 m) Cho Oyu (8,201 m)
are spectacular. We will depart high camp before dawn. The climb up to the
higher northern summit is straight forward, but will take 6-7 hours. The
reward is one of the world�s most spectacular mountain views, including
Everest and Lhotse just to the north, Cho Oyu to the northwest, and
Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east. We will then make our way down to Mera
La for lunch and to Khare to camp for the night.
Days 16 � 20 Trek back to Lukla. (B / L / D)
We follow the same route and come back to Lukla
Day 21: Flight: Lukla (2,840m) - Kathmandu (1,310m). Hotel Overnight (B)
Day 22: Final Departure.
Amazing Fact!
Thousands of climbers have climbed "Mera Peak" in
Nepal believing they have conquered the highest
"Trekking Peak" of the Nepal Himalayas. Indisputable
evidence shows they have missed their target by 8 km
(5 miles) and climbed an easy nameless mountain
almost 200m low too.
The exact location
for Mera is given in the list by Ministry of Tourism
and Civil Aviation (MTCA), where the location for
Mera Peak is North 27�46'27" and East 86�54'40". The
location of False Mera where all the climbers have
gone so far is North 27�42'24" and East 86�52'9".
This can be checked from any map showing the
latitude and longitude and the latest GPS (Global
Positioning System) technology. |
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Services Included:
01. All ground transfers as per our itinerary.
02. Thame Eco resort Hotel in Kathmandu (including breakfast
and all taxes).
03. Guided sightseeing in Kathmandu (including all entrance fees).
04. Welcome Dinner with Live Nepali Program hosted by Makalu Adventures.
05. Mera Peak Climbing Permit Fee
06. National Park Permit Fees (including all other entrance fees)
07. Mountain guide for climbing support (including his daily wages and
insurance).
08. Airfare: Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu.
09. Fully organized camping trek arrangement (best camping equipments,
tents, mattresses & etc)
10. Guide, cook, kitchen helper/porters with their daily wages, foods
and other expenses.
11. Everyday three times meals on trek, prepared by our very
professional kitchen crew.
- Services
Excluded:
01. All International Airfares / Airport Taxes.
02. Expenses of personal nature such as bar bill, laundry bill,
telephone bill, tips and etc.
03. Personal medical and travel insurance.
04. Helicopter Rescue & Evacuation - If needed.
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Fixed Departures Dates for 2018 |
Fixed Departure Dates for 2016/2018 |
March
01.03.2018
14.03.2018
28.03.2018
|
March
03.03. 2018
17.03. 2018.
29.03. 2018 |
April
01.04.2018
10.04.2018
19.04.2018
29.04.2018 |
April
02.04. 2018
07.04. 2018
14.04. 2018
27.04. 2018 |
May
02.05.2018
11.05.2018
17.05.2018
23.05.2018
30.05.2018 |
May
03.05. 2018
10.05. 2018
18.05. 2018
24.05. 2018
31.05. 2018 |
June
09.06.2018
15.06.2018
27.06.2018 |
June
05.06. 2018
16.06. 2018
30.06. 2018 |
July
05.07.2018
13.07.2018
20.07.2018
33.07.2018 |
July
07.07. 2018
14.07.2016
21.07.2016
31.07.2016 |
August
06.08.2018
15.08.2018
30.08.2018 |
August
07.08 .2016
13.08. 2016
28.08. 2016
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September
02.09.2018
17.09.2018
28.09.2018 |
September
09.09.2016
15.09.2016
25.09.2016 |
October
01.10.2018
07.10.2018
17.10.2018
27.10.2018
31.10.2018 |
October
02.10.2016
06.10.2016
16.10.2016
26.10.2016
30.10.2016 |
November
02.11.2018
11.11.2018
18.11.2018
29.11.2018
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November
04.11.2016
13.11.2016
20.11.2016
30.11.2016 |
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